Toolcase Part 4

After the case is done, and the grooves have been made, the joinery for the door must be cut. I am using mortise and tenon construction. I'm not exactly sure whether they're referred to as haunched tenons, because part of the tenon is stepped in order to fill the gap made by the groove running the full length of the board. Layout was simple I had made the grooves not in the middle of the frame, I made them a little more than a 1/4" from the front. So I used that 1/4" as one edge of the mortise, and made another edge a 1/4" from the other side of the stile. I then set my gauge for those same distances, and scribed them onto the tenon. Mortising is very straight-froward. Drill out as much as possible, chop out the rest, and then with a wide chisel, pare the sides of the mortise. I'm not sure how to explain how to cut the tenons, I just used my saw from my mitre box, and cut to the line. I try to fit the joint straight from the saw, but I always try to lean towards a little thicker. For the shoulders, I left about 1/16"-1/32" from the saw, and then trimmed the shoulders with a wide chisel. I also undercut the shoulders with a 1/2" chisel. Once everything is tight and square, trace the inside of the frame onto the material for the panel, and add about 1/4" to every side, or the depth of the groove. I used plywood, but if I did it again I think I would use real wood. The frame was slightly too tight, so I planed the edges a little on each side. I didn't worry about busting through the veneer because it's all going to be painted, or hidden in the groove.