Thursday, December 31, 2009

Small Infill Plane

I decided to finally build a infill plane. First I made a mock-up, to see if it will be usable. Here's the first version.

Reading Derek Cohen's writeup about building the Brese Small Smoother kit got me wondering about shavings clogging in the throat. So for the second version, I moved the back infill backwards, and put a radius on the back of the front infill. This increases throat size.

Right now this is probably what I'm gonna make. To follow the entire thread, go here.

Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Christmas Gifts

This year I built a maple box for my sister, and a quartersawn red oak tissue box cover for my Aunt and Uncle. I don't have a picture of the oak box, but I do have a picture of the maple box. Both boxes are dovetailed using my $4 Japanese flush-cut saw. The maple box has a sliding tray.

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays

Thanks to everyone for reading, I apologize that I haven't posted for a while, but I have been hard at work on making gifts for tomorrow (I'm not even done as I type this).

Hope you and your family have a peaceful holiday season.

Friday, December 4, 2009

Making a Plane Adjusting Hammer

After I started using my new fillister plane, I decided I needed a real plane adjusting hammer. This is what I came up with, not exactly a groundbreaking new design, but easy to make and works well. The head is made of 1/2" brass rod, with a 1/2" long ebony facing on one side. The ebony is attached by a machine screw that is tapped into the brass and the ebony. This is where a bottoming tap comes in handy. Unlike a normal tap, which doesn't have complete threads towards the front end of the tool so that the tool can be started easily, the bottoming tap has threads that go all the way. It is used after the normal tap has threads established. This allows threads to be cut all the way to the bottom of the blind holes, thus making it the strongest possible. The two pieces are joined with the addition of epoxy. The I drilled the hole for the hammer's tenon. This is tricky because the hole must be drilled into the curved side of the brass. So I took a piece of scrap pine, drilled a 1/2" hole in it, and a perpendicular 3/8" hole that intersects the 1/2" hole. This guides the drill bit and prevents wandering. I aligned the hammer head up with hole and drilled it out. After letting the epoxy set, I trimmed down the ebony, using the brass rod to reference my chisels off of. I domed each face of the hammer with a file. The head gets polished to 600 grit.The handle is black and white ebony, made into an octagon. When making an octagonal handle, it's best to rough it out with something like a block plane, and go back later with a smooth plane and clean up any tearout. Use a very thin cut, and a sharp blade. the handle is about 7" long. I formed the tenon that goes into the hammer head, and planed a taper into the top to make it look better. Then the hammer head is epoxied on, and the whole thing got three coats of shellac.