Got an email from FWW yesterday with this in it.
Shop made grooving planes
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Thursday, October 29, 2009
Workbench-Finished!
I apologize for not posting earlier, the workbench has been done for at least a week. So here it is. Note where the bench is. This weekend I plan on moving it to the far side of the room, and adding better lighting back there. I will post more pictures soon.
Now what's this, pills in the shop? No, it's a jojoba oil applicator made from an old pill jar and a old t-shirt. Works great, but may raise some interesting questions...
Now what's this, pills in the shop? No, it's a jojoba oil applicator made from an old pill jar and a old t-shirt. Works great, but may raise some interesting questions...
Monday, October 12, 2009
Leg Vise
For my workbench's front vise, I went for a leg vise. This is simple and cheap to make. Mine has a 2" thick hickory chop and a old vise screw I got for $8. I made the slot for the parallel guide bar, but some how it ended being way too big, and the bar was too loose. To fix this I clamped it to a large square block of wood, and then put a bunch of slow-setting epoxy in, and some wooden wedges. Ater it dried, I pegged it. It doesn't look great, but it is stout. 
Since my wooden screw is so beat-up, I decided to use a system first shown on Jameel Abraham's Blog where the guide bar slides on two small wheels, thereby taking the load off of the screw. (He later turned this into one of his products at Benchcrafted, the Glide Leg Vise.) I used small caster wheels that I cut from swiveling casters. The first one I installed was the one behind the leg, it is not adjustable. Since my side stretcher is so low , the wheel is mortised directly into the leg. The front wheel is in a wooden bracket which allowed to adjust it up and down to achieve optimal results.
Since my wooden screw is so beat-up, I decided to use a system first shown on Jameel Abraham's Blog where the guide bar slides on two small wheels, thereby taking the load off of the screw. (He later turned this into one of his products at Benchcrafted, the Glide Leg Vise.) I used small caster wheels that I cut from swiveling casters. The first one I installed was the one behind the leg, it is not adjustable. Since my side stretcher is so low , the wheel is mortised directly into the leg. The front wheel is in a wooden bracket which allowed to adjust it up and down to achieve optimal results.
In this photo, the back wheel is not visible, because it only sticks out about a 1/16" from the stretcher. The location is marked by the protruding nut.
To drill the 2 1/4" clearance hole for the screw I used a hole saw. I had never used one before, and discovered that it works much faster if there is little pressure. The chop could be drilled all the way through, but the leg was drilled from both sides. The garter, the piece that locks the screw in so that when it is released, the chop will travel backwards, is made from 1/8" thick aluminum (it's blue from layout liquid). Since the garter slot is not flush with the shoulder of the screw head, I had to mortise it in. The extra space to the top of the garter is essential. This allows it to be installed and uninstalled.
The nut for the vise screw is lag bolted in. The location is very simple to mark, just tighten the whole thing down, and mark.
I left the chop a little long so I could trim it flush with my bench top. At first I used my LN low-angle block plane, then my Stanley #4, both with poor results. Then I used my Stanley #6, which worked perfectly. It is a very solid tool, and I think that the weight helped give it good momentum to push through the cut.
To drill the 2 1/4" clearance hole for the screw I used a hole saw. I had never used one before, and discovered that it works much faster if there is little pressure. The chop could be drilled all the way through, but the leg was drilled from both sides. The garter, the piece that locks the screw in so that when it is released, the chop will travel backwards, is made from 1/8" thick aluminum (it's blue from layout liquid). Since the garter slot is not flush with the shoulder of the screw head, I had to mortise it in. The extra space to the top of the garter is essential. This allows it to be installed and uninstalled.
The nut for the vise screw is lag bolted in. The location is very simple to mark, just tighten the whole thing down, and mark.
I left the chop a little long so I could trim it flush with my bench top. At first I used my LN low-angle block plane, then my Stanley #4, both with poor results. Then I used my Stanley #6, which worked perfectly. It is a very solid tool, and I think that the weight helped give it good momentum to push through the cut.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Sliding Deadman
The sliding deadman's job is to support long boards on edge by either resting the board on a peg or a hold fast. 
To make mine, I flattened a pine 2" x 8", and rabbeted the top, 5/8" from the front. There is a matching groove in the bottom of the benchtop that is 5/8" from the edge, and 5/8" wide. 
It is also 1/2" deep, which is the deepest my plow plane goes. This poses a slight problem, as most plans I've seen have the deadman come out by deepening the groove, and having it slide up and then over the bottom. This is why I made the tongue removable, by two screws, I didn't want the tongue to be less than 1/2" long. The bottom track is shaped like a 'v', if I had made a groove, it is likely that sawdust and shavings would have collected in the corners, and not allow the deadman to slide. 
The bottom 'v' groove was very hard to make, I chopped it out with a chisel, and other tools. 
To make mine, I flattened a pine 2" x 8", and rabbeted the top, 5/8" from the front. There is a matching groove in the bottom of the benchtop that is 5/8" from the edge, and 5/8" wide. 
It is also 1/2" deep, which is the deepest my plow plane goes. This poses a slight problem, as most plans I've seen have the deadman come out by deepening the groove, and having it slide up and then over the bottom. This is why I made the tongue removable, by two screws, I didn't want the tongue to be less than 1/2" long. The bottom track is shaped like a 'v', if I had made a groove, it is likely that sawdust and shavings would have collected in the corners, and not allow the deadman to slide. 
The bottom 'v' groove was very hard to make, I chopped it out with a chisel, and other tools. 
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Wagon Vise
For my end vise I decided on an wagon vise. I think I could have gotten away with out one, but I thought it might be nice to have. Benchcrafted sells a very nice version of a wagon vise, but I just don't have that kind of money. The screw I used is sold through Lee Valley as a veneer press screw. It is pretty simple, the screw pushes a dog block which has a runner that slides in two slots under the bench. This screw was tricky. The flange, the part that was supposed to mount onto the dog block, has no holes or anything that allows it to be attached easily. So I made an oak piece that slips over the flange and is screwed to the dog block. Now I need to head over to the kennel for some dogs...
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
You Should be Blogging
99 posts ago I wrote my first post to the woodshopbug. I have had a lot of fun. I have become very famous (Brad Pitt invited me to one of his parties, but I turned it down since it was a school night) and have learned a lot. The reason I started was that I couldn't find a good blog on exactly what I am interested in. (I have since- see Notable Woodworking Blogs at the right of this page.) So this brings me to what I want you to do. Go to a blog host; wordpress, or blogger, and start. I use blogger because it's the first one I found, but I think that with wordpress you can make a more complex page. Either will be fine. Then start writing about what you do in your shop. Unless you stop woodworking (gasp!) you will always have something to write about, and therefore have no excuse for not posting.
The only tips I can think of about posting are to try to include pictures (in-action ones are even better, but not anything dangerous), don't go off in long rants, keep it concise, and proof read your post, spelling counts. Lastly send me an email about your blog,(thewoodshopbug@gmail.com) and I will link to you, which is not that big of a deal, but it's a start.
The only tips I can think of about posting are to try to include pictures (in-action ones are even better, but not anything dangerous), don't go off in long rants, keep it concise, and proof read your post, spelling counts. Lastly send me an email about your blog,(thewoodshopbug@gmail.com) and I will link to you, which is not that big of a deal, but it's a start.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Making Toothed Blades
In the recent Popular Woodworking, there was an article about using toothed blades (see Deneb Puchalski demonstrate them here) and got to thinking how that might be a useful tool, but all ones they were selling were upwards of $60. That's a lot more than I wanted to spend. So I decided to make one. I used a .035" thick 1" diameter cutoff wheel(part # 4550A121 at McMaster-Carr) with a 1/16" arbor. I then shimmed the bed (where the glass is), until it was about 1/32" away from the edge of the wheel. I turned it on and let it rip. I didn't get the teeth in very far, but I think it is enough. I think I could maybe make the teeth more evenly spaced if I used some sort of indexing system.
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