Update: Bevel-Up Plane

After the paint is sufficiently dried, I peeled off the tape, and it looks really nice. Right now I'm working on the lever cap, and then I'm almost done.

Bookmark of the Week

Here is the site of Bill Carter, professional plane maker. He makes a lot of mitre planes in the old style.

Bill Carter



Update on the saw; both nuts are finished, I'm now waiting to buy wood, as this weekend the guy I usually buy from is out hunting.

"Japaning"

This is a non-traditional method of japanning, but it worked for me.
Before japanning lock the screws in with thread lock(the blue stuff), which locks the handle bolster plate in and the bed plate in.
Later, cut off the excess and lap to flatness. In the photo below, I'm not quite done.

First, clean off any place you want the paint to go. Second, tape any place you don't want the paint to go. Than spray the paint and let dry.

Split nuts for the saw

The saw I cut needs nuts for the handle, and as I have no donor saws, I have two options. The first is to buy them, but they are kinda expensive. If they were available locally, I might consider it, but spending $20 on two tiny pieces of hardware is not my cup of tea. So instead, I decided to make them.


For materials, I used a 3/8 stainless steel rod, though I would recommend using a bigger size. Traditionally, brass was used, but this is what I had on hand, and I think the stainless might give the saw a more modern look. I also used two 10-24 machine screws(stainless), and Lock-Tite. Alternately, one can use Leif Hanson's writeup. I didn't because I don't have a suitable soldering set-up. They can also be purchased from Wenzloff and Sons.
What are split nuts?


First cut off about 1/4" of the rod. Then drill into it with a #23 bit, for the tap(it doesn't have to be 10-24 thread, but that's what I used.) Then cut a notch into it, about halfway down. Tap the hole through, making sure that there is plenty of oil. Then, screw the screw into the hole and lock it with thread lock. When that has cured, make the screw flush with the face, and sand to a suitable grit.

Now onto the other half. This part acts as the nut, and is made the same way except there is no shoulder cut. Also there is a slot cut that goes through the tapped hole. Obviously, there is no thread locker involved.

Bookmark of the Week

Here is the site of another tool making woodworker. Be sure to check out his homemade tools.

Bucky's virtual shop

Teeth Cutting

Here is how I cut the teeth in the saw. Before I did anything, I jointed the top of the teeth with a flat file. Then, I taped the template(15 tpi) to the steel. After that, I made a notch, with a triangular file, at each line in the template. After the entire saw is notched, I took a piece of wood and drilled a hole in it. Then, I wedged the file in so that one side is 90 degrees to the edge of the block. This acts as a guide to file consistent teeth, because if you grip the handle of the file with one hand, and the block with your other, it is fairly easy to keep the block parallel with the steel, and thus create perfect teeth. After the notching and file accessorizing, you deepen each tooth so that it is its full size. That is it until final sharpening and the setting of the teeth.To make this easier, darken the tops with black marker.


The reason for all these steps is that the more consistant the teeth are, the smoother the saw will cut.

Patternmaker's saw

I started working on a patternmaker's saw that I've been meaning to make. I first saw one at Leif Hanson's site.
I cut mine from a saw I got at a junk shop.First, I cut out the basic shape; 7 1/2" by 1 1/2". It also has a pointed nose to reach in awkward places. Using the template for 15 tpi,(on the "adding teeth" part of the Backsaw Project) I started cutting small grooves with a saw file. My best advice is to read this entire article, as it has the basic operations illustrated in it.

Later when I am further along on the teeth, I will do a better post on how exactly I did it.


For the handle, I took the provided photo, and scaled it so it was large enough. Make a prototype, and then see if it fits your hand well. Keep in mind when the handle is rounded over, the handle will feel slightly larger. In this photo the prototype is about 1/2' too long.