Update

I've been in the shop, but I don't have enough content for separate posts. So here is a update of what I've been doing:

I been doing a thorough clean of my Miller Falls 814 plane(it is the size of a #5).I finished the handle, it looks great.I prettied up the depth stop on the #78 plane.

I made a rebate in the brass I ordered so it can sit under the bed plate of the bevel-up plane and house the screw for the adjuster. More on this later.

I started brainstorming ideas for a hand tool cabinet. Right now, I'm thinking that a basic box, not too deep, with a flat style frame and panel door in walnut and turquoise milk painted pine would be optimal for my small collection. Right now, all my tools are scattered about, which is not good for them.

That's all for today.

Bookmark of the week

Here is a site by Peter McBride in Australia.
It has lots of cool info. Be sure to check out the engraved chariot plane.

Peter McBride

New chisel handle

I made a handle for this chisel a while ago, but it was too short so I never really used it. I made a new one today out of mystery wood and a 1/2" brass t-fitting. The outside of the fitting was really rough so I first cleaned that up. Then I used a piece of stock from a piece of wood I found in my basement, and planed it into a comfortable oval. Then I tapered it so it would blend well with the circular ferrule. For the tang you must drill a stepped hole. This is done by trial and error.
And now you have an excellent handle for a high quality, but(hopefully) cheap chisel.

In this photo the handle only has one coat of oil finish. My favorite detail is the 1/2" stamped on the front of the ferrule(the chisel is also 1/2")

Depth stop for the #78

Here is a depth stop I made from the same aluminum as the lever cap. Later I will refine it(polish it up and put a washer underneath the screw), but today I ran out of time.It works great, though without a proper fence it can only cut shallow rabbets.
Maybe next weekend...

Bookmark of the week

This is an excellent site with some very interesting reviews, especially of the Veritas brand.

The Cornish Workshop

Also check out her blog;
Musings from the Workbench

Bookmark of the Week

Here is a excellent site with all sorts of interesting information.

WK Fine Tool Internet Magazine

Parts for a Stanley 78

When I purchased the body of a Stanley #78, I figured I would either make new parts, or buy them. Stanley has replacement parts, but what I would need would probably be over $30. That's not much considering that a plane with all its matching parts costs quite a bit more than that (because of collectors).
I realized that a old and almost completely used up plane blade($1) would be perfect.
Then, I made a lever cap from 1/4" aluminum(free from my dad). the tensioning screw is just a piece of threaded rod with a slot cut in it because I didn't have the right screw.
Here are the results made with a fence board tacked to the piece.

Only a coat of wax...

...and the stool will be out of my basement!

Here is the stool after the second coat of tung oil.

Planing End-Grain

To square up the top, I had to plane end grain.
I have a block plane, but it's really bad so I decided to use my Groz #4. The main problem with a piece this large is holding it. What I did was clamp it low in the side of the vise and rested the bottom on a sawhorse. Don't forget to clamp a block on the back to prevent tearout. Clamping the block with its end grain on the piece's long grain makes this slightly more pleasant.
The result? A smooth flat surface and killer details.

Bookmark of the Week

This is one of my favorite sites, Derek Cohen in Australia.

In the Woodshop with Derek Cohen

Mission Stool: almost finished!

I'm thankfully almost done with this stool.
First, I cleaned all the wood. Here is a before...
...and after.
Then I did the glue up. I used one clamp, because that was the only one available that was long enough(okay I don't even have a clamp over 6", this one was borrowed from my dad). This resulted in a little gap between the shoulders of the tenon and the bottom of the top.
After that, I put some small wedges in the through tenons. Now it's ready for a oil finish and wax.